Grooming your New Puppy
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Grooming needs and supplies vary with different types of dogs, but all puppies and dogs appreciate and need regular coat care, regardless of the breed or mix of breeds. This special time to-gether, when grooming, is very important to the mental development of the puppy, because while being groomed, he recognizes you as the "pack leader". This recognition helps him to learn his place in the pack order. All humans must be at the top of the pack order and he, the dog, is at the bottom. The easiest way to work on your dog is to put him on a "grooming table". If you have ever gone to a dog show, almost all the dogs are sitting or standing on a table getting ready to compete in the show ring. This is because a table is most comfortable for you and your back, and the pup is safely lying or standing on the table. You can do a thorough job when using a table as opposed to the floor or the rug, where he can squirm and wiggle away from you. Being on the table regularly will help him feel more comfortable and secure when he has to visit the Vet and have to be on the examining table at the clinic. A grooming table is simple to make yourself. You will need a scrap piece of 3/4" plywood, (neither side needs to be good) and you want to cut it to be 24" wide and 40" long or have the lumber yard cut it for you. The cutting charge is minimal. Buy a set of banquet table legs from a Walmart or a Home Depot or Revy. They often go on sale and are less than $20.00. Next, buy 40" of 24" wide vinyl runner, which is sold by the inch at most home supply stores and glue this to the plywood top with contact cement. Attach the table legs and you have a collapsible table for the dog which can be covered with a table cloth for an extra table for entertaining! Many of us also use a "grooming arm" to keep the dog standing still on the table. It clamps to the table and you can raise or lower the height, depending on the dog's size. These are available at various online pet supply sites or from a good pet store or cataloge. Brushes & Combs: There are many types available - "Pin" brushes, "Slicker" brushes, "Bristle" brushes,"Hound Gloves" and Rakes are just a few. Pin brushes are usually used on Poodle, Maltese, Shih Tzus,Lhasa Apso type coats which are long and fine. Slicker Brushes are used on my breed - Kerry Blue Terriers, other terriers, as well as dogs like Siberian Huskies. Hound gloves are used on short coated dogs like Pointers, and Dalmations, and "rakes are used on Malamute type dogs to remove excessive long undercoats. Combs for dogs are usually chrome plated metal with wide teeth. I like to use a comb that has a combination of wide and fine teeth and that has at least 1" long teeth. Daily put the pup on the grooming table, with his neck in the grooming noose if you have one. Brush him gently but thoroughly all over with the slicker or pin brush. Don't forget to brush his ears and tail. Pay attention to his armpits and groin - mats develop easily in those areas. Don't make the early sessions too long and be sure to tell him how good he is,( if he is behaving) and how gorgeous he looks ( they are so vain). Discipline him with your voice if he misbehaves and always insist that he do it your way - not his. The grooming table is invaluable in the training process, as well as establishing his position in the household. You are the leader of the pack and he is the follower, although he may challenge you on this issue from time to time. You must always win this one !!!! Get Easy Dog Grooming now... Click here! The pup must stand on the grooming table for the majority of the time. This is easiest on all concerned and also a great benefit for a Veterinarian in the future when he is examining the dog. It is a great opportunity for you to do a good exam on him for cuts, ticks and any developing skin problems or strange bumps. Brush the coat, using firm pressure from the root of the tail to the top of the head, brushing toward the tail. Then, brush from the head to the tail, going toward the head, so that all the hair is standing up, then reverse the process to lay the coat back down again. Follow this procedure on the legs, starting at the top of the leg and working toward the foot, brushing down to the foot. Then, starting at the foot, brush up toward the body, and then go back down from the top to the bottom, to lay the coat back down. Don't forget to brush the tail and the ears as well. If you can run the comb through the coat when you are finished, you have done a good job !!!! We lay the dog on his side or back to brush the belly and chest. This is a good exercise in establishing your dominance again since he is in the submissive position.. Insist that the pup lay quietly while you do this, and do win this argument. Don't be alarmed by the appearance of dandruff at this time. Stress makes the dandruff pop out, but usually it is due to dry air in the winter, and lack of proper nutrition. Most commercial dog foods do not contains any oils, which the dog needs for a healthy coat, so add a teaspoon of olive, flax or corn oil to his food. If your pup is one of the 'coated' breeds that will require regular clippering and scissoring like Poodles, Cockers, Shih Tzus, Kerry Blues, Soft-Coated Wheatens, Schnauzers etc. then it is very important that they be taken to the Grooming Shop for their first trim after they have had their 2nd set of shots - at about 12 -14 weeks of age. It is like introducing your child to the dentist BEFORE the cavity develops to develop confidence and security. The pup needs to be introduced to professional grooming BEFORE his coat is a matted mess. Speaking of dentists :-)) You should get a dog toothbrush and doggy toothpaste from your Vet and begin daily toothbrush sessions on your pup while he's still young. Have your Vet demonstrate proper brushing for you. You must not use human toothpaste - there is too much abrasive content for the thin enamel on dogs teeth. Brushing daily starting while they're young prevents major problems in later years. |
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Disclaimer: The information, techniques and methods described in this web site are based on my experiences over many years.They may not be suitable for you.Nothing that I have written or demonstrated is intended as a substitute for professional advice from your own qualified Veterinarian. I assume no responsibility or liability of any kind regarding the use and application of any of the advice provided or methods and techniques depicted on this web site.